SWH2023 Day 66 Split Decision

Date: Friday November 3, 2023

Route: Hike from Lestado to Palas do Rei, Taxi to Melide, and Melide to Arzua

Location: Casa Brandariz, Arzua

Weather: Cloudy, 10C

Distance: 20.9km

Steps: 24,866

We time our departure from the Rectoral de Lestado to take advantage of a lull in the heavy rain that has been obscuring the view out of the breakfast conservatory. Stephen informs us that he is done, and will be staying for an extra day before catching a taxi to Santiago de Compostela. Having seen his tortured bent over posture and the laboured walk, I think it is a wise idea.

We have decided to walk 4 km into Palas do Rei, and see how the Tracey’s insoles perform, the fire gods having taken their price for paying insufficient attention during last night’s drying.

Faced with the prospect of an 8 hour day in the rain and wind to reach Arzua, we have decided to shortcut the middle piece and take a taxi from Palas do Rei to Melide, a distance of about 10 km, and then continue walking to Arzua.

We stop in for a midmorning tea after purchasing a replacement set of insoles at a farmacia. We happen to meet Eileen, a Scottish peregrina. Travelling solo, she is excited about the end of the journey in just a few days, and echoes my thoughts about trying to live in the moment and avoid thinking about the future.

The path after Melide takes us away from the busy road and the eucalyptus trees perfume the air.

I notice more pilgrims keeping to themselves, larger groups less interested in interacting with others. The short-timers walking from Sarria are just finding their rhythm and the long distance pilgrims are coming to terms with the impending end of the trip.

Our hotel is some 10 km out of town, the owners coming to pick us up in Arzua. It is a museum of period pieces complete with a fountain in the dining room. We have our happy hour drinks inside a giant fireplace big enough to roast an ox, two thick logs glowing warmly and promising to last all night.

The small windows and thick stone walls keep the outside rainstorm at bay, I only wish that the herd of rhinos upstairs had been a bit quieter.

Angel to watch over the pilgrims passing by

These people look unreasonably happy

I understand why these are so common

Bike swimming is a thing?

Doesn’t look nervous at all – no bike!

Eucalyptus forests perfume the air

The little oasis

That looks like some fierce guard dog, just like the tile

Yet another style

Giant honeycomb – couldn’t see where it had fallen from

Hotel sitting room

The pimiento rellonos were excellent and the lomo was very tender. Tracey found the chicken a bit dry

Very picturesque, inside and out