Date: Monday October 30, 2023
Route: Hike from O Cebreiro to Triacastela
Location: Albergue Atrio, Triacastela
Weather: Windy, 10C
Distance: 21.9 km, 5 h 1 m
Steps: 27,768
The thick mist grows gradually lighter, signalling that dawn has arrived. The world has shrunk to a few hundred metre space that travels with us as we find our way down the hill. The wind claws at our ponchos and packs, tries to knock us off our feet, but leaves the grey gloom untouched.
O Cebreiro is one of three important geographic landmarks, being one of the highest points on the Camino Frances. It also marks a psychological boundary – suddenly Santiago de Compostela seems so close, just barely a week’s walk away.
I attempt to fight the inevitable excitement of finishing this year’s journey, but it is a losing battle. The feeling of unlimited time stretching ahead of me is flipped and I’m beginning to think in terms of milestones: first Sarria, then Santiago and finally Finisterre all within the space of ten days.
I am fortunate that the rain holds off, and the wind is finally successful in pushing the fog and cloud cover off to the east. The rolling hills gleam with washed pastures sparkling emerald green in the passing sunny breaks.
The villages are small, usually just a group of farmhouses and barns huddled close together. The modern pressure of thousands of peregrinos passing by shows in the occasional new building sporting an albergue sign, or an old house converted into a cafe/restaurant.
We cross paths with Doug and Lori, two teachers leading a group of university students on a study abroad trip. We had met them briefly at a laundromat in Leon, and are surprised to see them in this tiny place. They are clearly looking forward to the end and returning to their homes in New England.
Just outside Triacastela, a gnarled and twisted 800 year old chestnut tree greets us in the hamlet of Ramilan. It is far more massive and stout than the 500 year old yew tree I had walked by in Slovenia in the first year of the Slow Way Home in 2018.
There is only one restaurant in Triacastela still open this late in the season, and it is crowded with familiar faces – we meet Pierre-Alexiy reunited with his girlfriend (and their dog), Joni and Danny, and the usual assortment of nodding acquaintances.
The rain kindly holds off, as usual until we are back into our astonishingly large room at the albergue.
Many Trips. One Life 