Date: Tuesday October 31, 2023
Route: Hike from Triacastela to Sarria
Location: Hotel Alfonso IX, Sarria
Weather: cloudy with sunny breaks
Distance: 18.6 km, 4h 9m
Steps: 24,171
It feels like a momentous day today – since I have signed up with a travel company to book our accommodations to the coast, it feels like the end of our independent travel. It is also the day we reach the milestone of Sarria, which is the minimum distance from Santiago de Compostela to receive an official compostela certificate of completion of the pilgrimage. And, most importantly, it is also T-10 days from reaching the end of the European leg of the Slow Way Home.
The pleasant village of Triacastela quickly disappears behind us as the camino winds its way up the hill through elm and chestnut forests. The trees lean over the moss covered rock walls forming a green tunnel to walk through.
It is a short day, a pleasant walk, with intermittent sunshine to bring some warmth. There is some evidence that the Celts migrated from Galicia to Ireland. The green rolling hills, the rainbows appearing over the nearby trees, and the lush forests are all what I imagine Ireland to be. The walking in Galicia has been an undiluted pleasure with the camino far from roads and passing through forests and fields.
Sarria is a disappointment. The new town is busy, grimy and unlovable. The old town is largely shuttered and abandoned for the winter. We find a cafe and share a bocadillo, the servers seem to be going through the motions, fatigued, and waiting for the end of the season.
We meet Saint James the Irishman on the way back to the hotel, he gives us mixed reviews of the Samos monastery which our route avoided: the monastery was impressive “though the guides were a bit sketchy” and the trail followed the road much of the way.
The pizza place across the parking lot from the hotel is as much as we can find enthusiasm for, and we wander over for an early meal. We are nearly done the meal when Melvin, a Swiss guy arrives and we share a few experiences before calling it a night.
Many Trips. One Life 
Have been totally enjoying your blog!! Beautiful scenery, churches and villages- and wonderful descriptive blog! Love you guys- enjoy the last few days of solitude and contemplation before you return to and are assaulted by reality!!
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Thank-you! I’m hoping the assault is not too fierce!
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I think we were a few weeks earlier than you the year we walked as we were in Finisterre by mid-October I think.
We were a bit taken aback with the busyness of the trail at Sarria. I was a bit grumpy with the increase in people on the first day. Henry was ahead of the curve and engaged newcomers in conversation. Some people were just so excited to be starting their Camino in Sarria. Saved me from my jaundiced attitude of the day.
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I expected a lot of people to join, but it is obviously the tail end of the season now. I feel like they are rolling up the carpet and shutting off the lights behind us!
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I haven’t really noticed shiny newbs on the trail. A few unfamiliar faces, but that is pretty standard. I hope I can keep the same grace with the excited short timers ________________________________
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