Date: Sunday November 5, 2023
Route: Hike from A Rua to Santiago de Compostela
Location: Parador Reyes Catolica
Weather: Rain, sun
Distance: 22.0 km 4h 52m
Steps: 29,764
The rain sweeps us along the final few hours of the Camino, stopping occasionally enough to allow the relief of taking off our ponchos and cooling slightly. The few cafes open are crowded with pilgrims, we stop only to get our middday sello at a small church.
There are two peregrinos kneeling in the pews, the padre puts his hands to his lips to warn us. I drop a few coins in the donativo box as he stamps our credenciales.
The first view afforded to pilgrims of the spires of the famous cathedral is from the top of Monte de Gozo (Mount Joy). There is no joy today, as a wall of rain obscures the city at the foot of the slope.
We fall in with a couple of other Canadians finishing their fifth consecutive Camino Frances, and they act as our guides into the city and to the square in front of the cathedral.
Pilgrims singly or in groups are scattered around the open area taking selfies, congratulating each other and occasionally cheering as they celebrate the completion of their journey.
The rain stops long enough for our photo session, and then we head off to receive our compostela. Our names are translated to Latin to match the text of the certificate: Tracey is Theresium and I am Abhi. The Romans never did make it to India.
We join our impromptu Camino buddies for a drink in the lobby of our hotel. Built in the 15th century by order of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella “to provide a place for the hungry, sick and tired pilgrims from Spain and other kingdoms”, it is now a luxury 5 star hotel that provides cheaper rates for peregrinos.
The talk inevitably turns to what the Camino has done and Steve talks at length about his newfound desire to be instinctively generous, to have the default setting to be ‘yes’ rather than a suspicious ‘why’ or even ‘no’
I feel like I accidentally joined a journey deeply meaningful for others, but without the same emotional investment in following The Way. I had heard everyone that had been on the Camino say that it was one of the best experiences of their lives. For me, searching for a way to complete the walk across Europe, it seemed a natural route to follow: lots of positive feedback and a historic, well-travelled pathway. Santiago is a milestone on the way to the coast, largely because I am following the Camino as a means to getting home.
The group breaks up, and we join Steve and Jerry in the hotel restaurant for a good meal. Well, at least the three of them had a good meal, I manage to order a platter of iberico ham once again!
I return to our room in good spirits, looking forward to the final few days to Finisterre and the end of the European stage of the Slow Way Home.
Men make plans, and the gods laugh.
That is NOT a delicious mushroom. It’s poisonous … amanita muscaria
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Bruce and I are so proud of you, and yes, we will celebrate your incredible achievement on your successful journey. Congratulations once again!!! A nice port, a Grand Marnier on the rocks, a huge cigar, dark chocolate and your Beziers wine glasses, plus us, await your return!!!! 🥰. Friends, forever!!🎼🤗
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CONGRATULATIONS to both of you! Hard to believe you made it in good spirits and are still friends, regardless of the inclement weather and the ups and downs along your journey. We are sticking around for “The rest of the story”
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